Something to say

It has been said that to be a writer one must possess three basic characteristics: a love of words, industry, and something to say. It has also been said that a wise man speaks because he has something to say – while a fool speaks because he has to say something. To which category I belong is up to the reader to decide - but I do love words, I have industry (I need an outlet for it), and I do have something to say.

I recently had the privilege of travelling to our nation’s capital - a trip I have anticipated making for a long, long time. It was for me a pilgrimage of sorts and has had a deep and lasting affect on me and I feel a desire (if not a need) to share some of my thoughts – so here goes nothing…

I love America. The story of her beginning is fascinating to me and has always impressed me as one of hope and optimism. I believe that the men (and let’s not forget the women – my favorite is Abigail Adams) who sacrificed and endured so much to establish this nation were inspired of Almighty God – and so did they. They pledged their lives, their fortunes, and their sacred honor to what they saw was a glorious and divine cause and they did it with great risk. Benjamin Franklin perhaps said it best when he said to his fellow ‘traitors’, “we must all hang together or assuredly we will all hang separately”. He was not joking. Treason against the Crown of the British Empire, which they were all openly committing, was punishable by death. I have often wondered at what would make educated, successful men (and their wives) want to undertake such a dangerous and seemingly impossible task. I believe that they sensed that they were on the cusp of something big. How big? Around the time of the writing of the Declaration of Independence, John Adams wrote this in a letter to a friend:

“Objects of the most stupendous magnitude, measures in which the lives and liberties of millions, born and unborn are most essentially interested, are now before us. We are in the very midst of revolution, the most complete, unexpected, and remarkable of any in the history of the world.”

John Adams was not ignorant. He was a Harvard graduate and a voracious reader - and he knew history. He, along with the other major participants, knew that they had arrived at a momentous point in world history and that it was their duty to themselves and to future generations to fulfill their several roles. The outcome of the decision to declare independence is, obviously, well documented - and we are the beneficiaries of that momentous undertaking.

While this new nation was not perfectly conceived in its infancy (the elephant in the room being slavery) it was a daring departure from the political ideals of the time and laid a sturdy foundation for ‘a more perfect union’ in the times to come. To me, therein lies the genius of what the Founders came up with. They knew it wasn’t perfect but they left the door open for improvement. They worked a great work and sacrificed so much to give us what we have today. The risks and sacrifices, to me, are staggering. As I learn more about the individuals who pulled of this audacious feat and all that they suffered and endured, I am disheartened, as are many Americans, by what has become of our once great country.
Is America not great anymore? I think we still have the bedrock foundation for greatness but we have wandered far from the original course plotted by our forefathers. What would they think of the massive debt that has enslaved us, the dishonesty in government and corporations, the proliferation of pornography and violence, apathy for others, the absence of common decency, the decline of the education system, all of our foreign entanglements, the number of people completely dependent on the government, and especially the disdain for God and religion in our public discourse? The list will get quite lengthy if I go on but you get the idea. I am quite confident that they would be very disappointed in us and would have every right to be after what they went through. In fact they warned us that some of the very things espoused by our society today could bring about the end of the republic and extinguish the torch of liberty they struggled to ignite and keep burning. It seems to me that they have passed that torch across many generations only to land in ungrateful hands.

With that said, here are my impressions, and a few things I learned from my visits to: monuments to great leaders, institutions of government, sacred battlefields, and hallowed burial grounds. They are in, for lack of a better sequence, the order in which we visited them.  If you feel inclined to do so, leave a comment - I welcome the feedback whether you are like-minded or not.  Much of what follows is my opinion so please take into consideration that I, like this great nation, am a rough stone rolling....



THE VIETNAM MEMORIAL



As I approached ‘the wall’ (as it is known), knowing that the names of the dead and missing are engraved on it, my first thought was: “I hope they used big letters” because if they didn’t – well, that’s a lot of wall to cover. There are 58,272 names inscribed on it.
One of the design criteria for the memorial was for it to be reflective in nature. The designers took that literally and chose a rare black granite (which came from India), the reflective properties of which allow you to see yourself in the names of the dead.

Note: while the stone was imported, all of the engraving and finish work was completed by American craftsmen - in America (unlike the new Marting Luther King Jr. memorial which was made in, you guessed it, China). It is sobering to walk the length of the wall and think that each name belonged to a family, had friends, and dreams of their own – 58,272 people. A large chunk of an entire generation lost. It is very sad. It has become far too easy for men and women in power to send young people off to fight in distant lands. Perhaps we would fight fewer wars if our leaders were required to believe enough in a cause that they actually lead the army into war – like George Washington did. Just a thought.  I mean no disrespect to the fallen.  I believe that the majority of our men and women in uniform join up and serve so that they can help others who can't help the themselves.  I just think that war has become too much a tool of foreign policy.  This memorial is evidence of how costly these decisions can be.





THE LINCOLN MEMORIAL



For me the Lincoln Memorial had the feel of a sanctuary. I felt as if I were on hallowed ground. The larger than life statue of a seated Lincoln gives the sense that he was larger than life - that indeed: “Here and there, and now and then, God makes a giant among men”. The importance of his accomplishments as President of the United States – ending slavery and preserving the union – cannot be overstated. To him, slavery was a stain on the nation – a blight that would forever hold her back from reaching her true potential. On the south wall of the memorial, engraved in stone, is the Gettysburg address.



To me it shows Lincoln’s humility, faith, and wisdom. I have more thoughts on our visit to Gettysburg and his speech that I will share later.
On the north wall his second inaugural address is displayed in like manner.  If you have the time, it is worth reading - you can even read it here in Lincoln's own hand:

http://www.ourdocuments.gov/doc.php?flash=true&doc=38

I had never read it before but recognized parts that have often been quoted. I was pleased to see that he did not make wild promises or extol his own virtue or accomplishments, that he quoted the bible and referred to God on more than one occasion. How refreshing it would be if our current ‘leaders’ would speak as plainly and honestly about the reality of our current situation and what it will take to overcome it.


THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT

I’m glad we got go inside the Washington Monument. It is closed now indefinitely due to damage sustained in the earthquake just two days after we returned home. We are lucky to have been able to go in at all. Apparently you have to line up pretty early in the morning to get same day tickets to tour the monument - something we just didn’t have time to do since our hotel was not very close - and hey, we were on vacation! Fortunately, my brother Brian, in his persuasive manner, asked the security guard if  “he couldn’t squeeze us in” since no one was in line. It worked – and I’m grateful.
I used to think that George Washington got shafted – that he deserved more than just an Egyptian knock off for a monument. However, after seeing it in person, I am impressed. The obelisk is over 555 feet tall and is massive. It is the most noticeable and visible landmark in the city named after the good general who was appropriately  described by Henry Lee as ‘first in war, first in peace and first in the hearts of his countrymen’. He was deservedly beloved and truly earned the virtual universal admiration of all.
When you take the elevator to the top, there are 4 observation stations – one on each side of the structure. The windows were a little dirty so the pictures didn’t turn out but the view of the city and the landmarks was breathtaking. To catch the elevator back down you have to take the stairs to the next floor down on which there are several tributes to Mr. Washington – including these two quotes:

He truly did not 'lust after power' and I believe he had an honest and peaceful heart.  But at the same time he was not afraid to take up arms to defend what he believed were God-given rights.

To me both quotes show his gentle nature and humility (why is humility so absent from our current ‘leaders’?). President Washington was offered the Presidency for the rest of his life due largely to his accomplishments on the battlefield and simply for who he was. I don’t know if it was even a temptation to him, but after eight years in office, he declined and chose to retire to his beloved Mt. Vernon.  His work was done and he deserves every single accolade and compliment that has ever been directed toward him.


THE WHITE HOUSE

 This is the north lawn and main entrance to the White House.

This is the south lawn where the President's helicopter lands. 

My first impression of the White House was that it looks smaller in real life than on TV - but it is still very impressive.  It is easy to see why it is also probably the world's greatest diplomatic home court advantage - very stately inside and out. 
If you look closely at the picture below, you can see Mrs. Obama chatting with (I think) a friend on the second floor veranda.

On the morning that we toured the White House we saw Mrs. Obama and her children leave the White House in their motorcade but we never saw them or 'the boss' in person as he was out trying to keep his job.  No photos are allowed inside the White House but that didn't stop me from sneaking one with my phone looking south from the Green Room toward the Washington Monument.

It is not a great photo but it's the only one I will probably ever get inside the White House and I was afraid to take any more because as I was taking this photo the secret service agent in the room was yelling at someone else to put his phone away.
The tour of the White House is disappointing in that you really only get to see one floor.  You enter through the lower east entrance where the office of the First Lady is located.  You then walk down the hall to the China, Vermeil and Diplomatic rooms.  Entrance to the rooms is prohibited - you are only allowed to look inside through the narrow doorways so we didn't spend much time there.  The tour then takes you upstairs to the 'State Floor' - the first stop is the East Room which is the largest in the White House.  Because I don't have any photos, I will be brief in my description.  The most impressive things in the East Room were the chandeliers (which were being hand cleaned by 5 or 6 people) and the portrait of George Washington - this is the original painting that Dolly Madison saved when the British burned the White House down during the War of 1812.  I should have been sneaky and snapped a photo but there were more secret service personnel in the room than tourists.  Next was the Green Room (where I took my illicit photo).  I don't remember much about this room other than the fact that Thomas Jefferson used it as his dining room.  The Blue Room, our next stop, I recognized immediately.  The President will often receive foreign dignitaries in this room and we have probably all seen it at least once on CNN.  The next room was the Red Room and I honestly don't remember a single thing about it other than the secret service agent telling the story of when President Taft (who weighed over 300 lbs.) got stuck in the upstaris bath tub.  The State Dining Room was the last room on the tour.  My only thought was that it looked smaller than it seems in movies like "The American President" but that it would be a great place to have Thanksgiving dinner (weird, I know).
While it was neat to visit the White House, it was not as interesting as most of the other stuff we saw and I was disappointed we weren't able to at least look into the Oval Office.  I am very grateful, though, that I could give my daughter the experience because she really liked it.

THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES

The National Archives building is a massive, monolithic building that appears to have been designed to withstand just about anything (and I hope it does).  It is most famous for housing original copies of the Declaration of Independence, The Constitution, and The Bill of Rights - all of which are on display but no one is allowed to photograph them.  The Magna Carta is also normally on display - but the display was being renovated while we were there so we didn't get to see it.

It was a reverent experience to view these documents.  The Declaration of Independence, sadly, was so faded that it was almost illegible - although it was still easy to make out John Hancock's famously large signature.  The Constitution and Bill of Rights, however, were very legible.  It was really cool to see the signatures of George Washington, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson and so many others who devoted everything to formulating a new government.  A new government, as John Adams would often say 'of laws and not people' - meaning that no one was above the law.

The National Archives is home to many other documents as well. For example, my friend's in-laws are serving a mission for the LDS church at the archives photographing civil war pension records for family history work.

The inscription on the south east side of the building says: This building holds in sacred trust the records of our national life and symbolizes our faith in the permanency of our national institutions.  I hope that that is true - that we can keep them permanent.

The architecture of these old buildings is fascinating to look at.  One weird thing about this building is that, if I'm not mistaken, that is Zeus front and center. 

As we left the Archives building I noticed this small statue - it was the inscription, though, that made me want to photograph it.  It's kind of hard to see but it says:  ETERNAL VIGILANCE IS THE PRICE OF LIBERTY.  I believe that to be as true now as ever.

THE CAPITOL

To tour the Capitol it is necessary to get tickets through your congressman or senator.  I thought we were going to be able to see the gallery where joint sessions of Congress meet and where the President gives the State of the Union address.  I did not know that you have to get yet another ticket to be able to do that - so we only got the '2 dollar tour' - but it was still pretty neat.
Each state was asked to provide two statues for display in the Capitol.  This one, of King Kamehameha, was the most colorful and is in the lobby of the visitor center.

This one is of Brigham Young.  We did not see the other one from Utah so I don't know who it is.

The Capitol rotunda was the highlight of the tour.  It was very impressive.  This is a painting that went all the way around the rotunda and depicts scenes from American History.  It looks like a 3D stone carving but it is indeed a painting.

There were also several original works of art on display including the one below of the surrender of the British to General Washington after the battle of Yorktown.

Photos really do the paintings no justice - they were very large and vivid.  The most impressive part of the Capitol Rotunda is the dome.  Our tour guide told us it weighed several million pounds (I want to say 9 but I can't recall for certain) and that it is so tall, the Statue of Liberty could fit inside with almost 30 feet of clearance.  This fresco depicts the ascension of George Washington to heaven.

It really is stunning to see and even more so when you realize that it's painted on a curved surface.  I don't get all of the extraneous stuff in it like the guy who looks like King Triton - but I just don't know enough about it to comment on it.  I was just impressed with it. I had hoped to see more of the Capitol but that was really pretty much it.

THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

The Library of Congress is one of the most exquisite buildings I have ever seen.  From the amount of detail in the stone carvings on the exterior to the finish work inside; it is truly breathtaking.

The most conspicuous part of the building is the reading room - shown below.  Haley said, "dad, it's the room from the movie 'National Treasure'", and it is.  I have included several photos (that, according to the signs all around, I shouldn't have taken but with modern digital cameras it's possible to take good photos without using the flash).

The interior of the building is incredibly ornate - influenced by, I believe, the importance that Thomas Jefferson placed on books.  In fact, it was interesting to me that Jefferson's personal library was on display.  Again, 'no photos' signs were placed everywhere but I used the Flip video camera to get a quick 360 view of the display (which I haven't been able to get to work but you can view it here http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/jefferson/jefflib.html) .  Anyone who wants to know why Jefferson was so smart need look no further than his personal library and consider the amount of time he spent reading.  "I cannot live without books", he said.  And apparentely it was true as he owned more than 6,000.  Thomas Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence (with input from others) and was heavily influenced by all of the time he spent reading the great literary works of the time.  I think our nation would be much better off if our young people (and our old people too) spent more time reading the words of those who have gone before us.

GETTYSBURG

After having seen so many incredible sites, if I were asked which I would most like to revisit, I would choose Gettysburg (though the nerdy engineer in me would place the air and space museum a close second). 

I was truly moved by what I experienced at Gettysburg.  I have always known that Gettysburg was an important victory for the Union during the Civil War but I never understood how importatnt or how close it was to being a crushing defeat - and possibly changing the outcome of the war.

Before I go any further I would like to say this:  if you ever have the opportunity to visit Gettysburg I strongly encourage you to do so - and plan on spending some time there.  You won't regret it.

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania is about an hour-and-a-half from Washington, D.C. and is worth the drive.  It is a sprawling farming community that is said to appear today much as it would have in July of 1863.

In June 1863 General Robert E. Lee had put together a string of victories against the North which had allowed him to penertrate pretty far northward.  The Union commanders had been keeping and eye on Lee as he approached Gettysburg when the decision was made to attempt to stop him from going any further.  Though the numbers vary by source it is generally accepted that over 150,000 total troops would be engaged in this historic battle (more than 80k for the union and around 75k for the confederacy).  While the North would eventually have a numerical advantage; on day one, July 1, the South had an almost 2 to 1 advantage until reinforcements arrived that night.  The fighting was heavy inflicting many casualties (casualties = anyone taken out of the fight by desertion, being wounded, captured or dying).  Here is a summary of the casualties for both sides:

http://www.militaryhistoryonline.com/gettysburg/getty4.aspx

Lee's army would eventually push the Union soldiers back to Cemetery Ridge where they would make their last stand.  One of the greatest spectacles of the battle must have been "Pickett's Charge".  General Lee ordered a full frontal assault on Cemetery ridge that included 12,000 men in a line almost a mile long.  It was a disaster for Lee as he lost 5,000 men in one hour.  The loss was so great that Lee decided to abandon the fight at Gettysburg and return to Virgina.

In all there were around 50,000 casualties over the 3 day battle - more than the population of Bountiful, Utah.

The visitors center at Gettysburg does a marvelous job of bringing the battle to life and paying homage to those who fought it.  The museum is pretty comprehensive and succeeds at displaying and explaining the artifacts.  There is a short film produced by the History Channel and narrated by Morgan Freeman that explains the significance of the battle of Gettysburg and brings it to life.  I was surprised at Mr. Freeman's sympathy for the South.  While in no way condoning the reprehensible practice of slavery, he conceded that it must have been a difficult thing for Southerners to give up their way of life.  The film, which I beleive can only be seen at Gettysburg, was both inspiring and heart-wrenching.  More than once during the day, though no one noticed, I had to choke back tears and one of those times was during that short movie.  I wish it was available to the public.

After the film you walk upstairs to the Cyclorama.  I had no idea what a cyclorama was until I went to Gettysburg.  A cyclorama is a 360 degree mural painted on a single canvas.  The one at Gettysburg is 27 feet tall and 359 feet in circumference.  Photos (which were allowed without flash) do it no justice but here are some that I took:

It was painted by a french artist named Paul Philippoteaux to depict Pickett's charge as seen from the top of Cemetery Ridge where the Union soldiers made their last stand.  Mr. Philippoteaux came to Gettysburg not long after the war to study the terrain and interview veterans of the battle.  For that, his painting is considered to be a pretty accurate representation of what actually happened.  It was very impressive.
Next up was the museum.  We saw a lot of neat stuff at the museum and I took some photos but the thing that I remember the most is this quote:

This set the stage for our tour of the battlefield itself.  As one of the 'men...from afar' who was 'drawn to see where great things were suffered and done for (me and all Americans)',  I couldn't help but feel reverenced by the thoughts of the great deeds done during those 4 days in 1863 and the possibility that some of the spirits did still linger.
The battlefiled tour route is 24 miles long and includes 16 chronological stops.  The first was McPherson Ridge where the first shot of the battle was fired.  There are approximately 1,328 monuments, markers and memorials at Gettysburg.  The largest and most conspicuous are dedicated to the individual units of both armies that fought in the battle like this one - the largest at McPherson Ridge which is dedicated to Abner Doubleday, commander of the Army of the Potomac.  I have no idea who he was but his statue was impressive.

The next stop was at the Eternal Light Peace Memorial.  This memorial was dedicated 75 years after the battle at Gettysburg with over 1,800 Civil War veterans present.  The memorial, with the flame atop, is dedicated to "Peace Eternal in a Nation United".

At one point on the tour you can climb a 40 (or 50) foot tower and have a 360 degree view of much of the battlefield.  These are the photos I took from the top of the tower.

Little and Big Round Top, the hills in the background - where some intense fighting took place

I will not take the time to tell (nor ask you to read) about every stop on the tour but I will say this:  There is a sacred feel to walking this old battlefield.  If you listen, you can almost hear the roar of the cannons, the sharp report of the Spencer carbines, the shouts of orders and the cries of the wounded and dying.  51, 000 casualties in 4 days is a stunning total. 

This was the largest and most impressive memorial in the park.  It is dedicated to the lone artillery battery who, on the first day of the battle, bravely held the line at this point on Cemetery Ridge until, quite literally, the cavalry could arrive.  It is called the Pennsylvania Memorial.

The last stop on the tour was Cemetery Hill and the Soldiers' National Cemetery.  This is the cemetery where President Abraham Lincoln gave what would later be known as the Gettysburg Address.

I did not take this photo.  I stupidly forgot to take one so I 'borrowed this one'.

Lincoln came to Gettysburg in November of 1863 for the dedication of the cemetery.  Oddly, he was not the key note speaker at the service.  A man by the name of Edward Everett went first and gave a 2 hour speech 'rich in historical detail and classical allusion'.  The President was then asked to make a "few appropriate remarks".  His "appropriate remarks" took about 2 minutes.  After the speech, Everett told Mr. Lincoln, " I should be glad if I came as near to the central idea of the occasion, in two hours, as you did in two minutes".  The Gettysburg address is deservedly considered to be a masterpiece and for me personifies the struggle at Gettysburg as well as shows the character of the great and humble man who wrote it (back when President's wrote their own speeches).
I came away from Gettysburg with a better understanding of and appreciation for the 'great deeds' that were done here.  Gettysburg was a turning point in the war to keep our country together and without the brave acts performed there, the map of our country could very well look a lot different today.  I wish that every American could experience Gettysburg.  I may be a little too idealistic but I believe it could help us to see what we have in common and better ignore our petty differences.

ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY

The last significant site we visited on our trip was Arlington.  We went to Arlington National Cemetery on Sunday and it felt like Sunday - relaxed and reverent. Though Arlington is the resting place for over 320,000 soldiers, astronauts, explorers, nurses, presidents, and supreme court justices it has not always been a cemetery.  The land was originally owned by George Washington Parke Custis, step-son of George Washington.  In 1831 Mary Custis, his last surviving child, married Robert E. Lee (yes, that Robert E. Lee) at Arlington house where they resided until 1861 when Lee resigned his commission from the U.S. army.

Arlington House.

I don't know if it is true or not but it is reported that during the civil war, the Union buried northern soldiers right next to Arlington House just to spite Lee.
Anyway, over time, dead soldiers were buried here and it eventually became the largest national military cemetery in the country.  Soldiers from every major U.S. war from the Revolutionary War to the present are buried at Arlington.  Everywhere you look - a sea of white headstones.  The following photos were taken at 3 different locations in the cemetery.

I have always wanted to watch the famous changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  I have included a couple of short videos (I can't remember why I just didn't take one video but we got there just as it was starting) for your viewing pleasure but first a little background.

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was established in 1921 and still contains the remains of an unknown soldier from WWI.  A contingent of guards from the Third U.S. Infantry have guarded the tomb every minute of every day since July 1, 1937.  The honor guard 'sentinels' are volunteers who have to apply for the mission to guard the tomb.  They are required to be between 5'-10" and 6'-4" tall, must memorize verbatim several pages of facts about the cemetery and be able to recite them as well retain vast amounts of information about Arlington, the Army and their individual army unit.  80% of those who try out don't make it.  The average sentinel spends 8 hours preparing his or her (there have been 3 female sentinels) uniform for duty.  It is considered a great honor for them to guard the tomb and they take it very seriously.

As you watch the sentinel perform his duty you will notice that it is very precise and seems to be a purpose to every pronounced movement.  The sentinel walks 21 paces down the mat and stops, faces the tomb for 21 seconds, faces back down the mat for 21 seconds and takes another 21 pace walk to the other end.  The 21 steps and 21 second pauses refer to the 21 gun salute, the highest honor that can be paid in the military.  You will also notice that the sentinels rifle is always switched to the shoulder between any possible threat and the tomb.  More information about the tomb and the honor guard may be found here:  http://www.tombguard.org/

You can 't really see it in the photo below but the inscription on the tomb reads:  "Here Rests in Honored Glory an American Soldier Known but to GOD."  The President (except for Clinton who had Gore do it) lays a wreath at the tomb every memorial day and veteran's day to honor the fallen.

I have included two short videos of the ceremony of the changing of the guard.  There are many more on sites like YouTube - some are better than these but, I'm using them because they're mine.  Please forgive the lady in the second video for not turning her cell phone off...
 

It could be that my emotions have been near the surface for the last few months because of what has been going on in my personal life but I was touched by the ceremony and the dedication of the soldiers who guard the tomb.  In essence they are saying - you are not forgotten because I won't let you be and nothing will disturb your rest on my watch.

Overall, I gained a greater understanding of and appreciation for some of the great events in the history of America.  I also realized how far we have deviated from some of our time-tested and honored ideals.  It is my sincere hope and prayer that we, as Americans, can come together and return to those ideals before we are compelled to do so.

-KW